6.4 & 6.5

Sari and I

San Vincente de Paul
Today a group of girls came from a middle school to throw a party for the residents. They sang songs, danced with the women, gave them snacks & juice, and flowers. It was very sweet. They also helped push the wheelchaired women around, but it ended up being a slower journey, because they didn't know where to go and kept getting jammed up in the narrow hallways. It is much more efficient to have two or three people take them than 20. After the women were all set up in their rooms, Sari and I visited with a couple of them and learned about their families. Then we cleaned up the activity room since there were flower petals and crumbs everywhere. We got back, had a quick lunch, and then got in the bus to go see the Coffee Plantation.

Coffee Plantation
We head back out to a coffee plantation outside of Antigua for a brief tour. The guide first takes us through the museum and explains the coffee bean process. The beans start bright red - the coffee cherry. The skin is shucked off and the red part is used in the compost pile. Next, the yellow "parchment" of the coffee bean is separated, revealing the green bean. The green beans are roasted and turned into the dark brown that we see when we buy coffee beans. The type of coffee - light, medium, dark - depends on how long the beans are left to roast. The best tasting coffee is roasted in the sun rather than an oven. We toured the outdoors where the coffee was physically growing. There were beautiful banana trees towering over the coffee bean trees. The guide allowed us to try a few of the coffee beans to taste the different flavors - word to the wise, coffee beans don't taste that great unless they're covered in chocolate.

Next, we took a short tour through a little museum dedicated to Mayan musical instruments. The new guide, a woman, is dressed in traditional Mayan garments still seen all around Guatemala. Most are made from clay or gourds, but a few use more interesting materials, such as cat intestines and horse jaws. She plays all of the instruments and we have the opportunity to play and buy some in the gift shop at the end of the tour.

6.5
Woke up with a horribly sore throat and what felt like a sinus infection today. Decided to stay home from work and the afternoon activity to try and rest up. The staff took me to the pharmacy to buy some antibiotics - here, you don't need a prescription from a doctor. When everyone got home, we decided to order pizza from Domino's. Only a week in this country and we are all craving American food like crazy!!

6.3

San Vincente

Today was slow. Sari and I arrived at 8:30 and joined the women for prayer. After, we wheeled them down to the Comedor for arts and crafts, which lasted two hours. The more able women embroidered and crocheted, the less able colored in coloring books. Two women cut strips of orange and blue streamer paper into tiny pieces to stuff confetti eggs with for next year's Carnival. There are already several stacks of eggshells waiting in the supply room. Sari and I color, assist the women, talk with them, and listen to the salsa music playing on the DVD player. We wheel women out to their rooms as they get tired. Struggling to understand everything the women are saying, many of whom have no teeth, is mentally draining. While I know this is exactly what will make my Spanish auditory and oral skills improve over the next three weeks, it's difficult. We paint a few women's nails for them, but most have fresh coats and aren't interested in a color change. When the activity is over, we spend the next hour helping set up for lunch and chatting. We leave a little after 12 to head home. Despite the short day, my feet and head hurt. Lunch is served at the Home Base, and we rest a little before our afternoon outing.

The Map

Today we have a “Spanish Lesson.” It has been raining on and off, but the weather is cool and we set out with our umbrellas. There is a park several blocks away that has a large, realistic map of Guatemala. We spend about an hour there taking pictures and talking about geography, then head back. Tomorrow, we will visit a Coffee Plantation, yum!

6.2

Hogar de Ancianas de San Vincente de Paul

Our first day of volunteering began today. We start the morning with breakfast and coffee, and the 18 of us split between two buses. Sari, another volunteer, and I will be working at Hogar de Ancianas de San Vincente de Paul, an institution for abandoned elderly women. We're escorted to a building with a tiny paper sign on the door, ring the bell and are buzzed in. Alejandra, one of the program coordinators, introduces us to one or two of the staff, and leaves us. Nobody here speaks English. We're led to a chapel on the third floor where the women begin their days praying. They are finished and waiting for us. After a brief introduction and a round of applause, we're instructed to take the women down to a recreation room for “Gym,” starting with those who are wheelchair-bound. One by one, we pull the women down steep and narrow ramps, pulling the wheelchairs backward to have better control, down three floors. What. A. Workout. After we have all of the wheelchair women lined up, we go back up to assist the women who walk with canes. After several trips and some lost-in-translation snippets of conversation, it's time to begin. Sari and I remain for Gym and participate in the games and exercises. The women are funny, lively and very chatty. When that's over, we wheel and walk all the women back to their rooms on the second floor so they can prepare for lunch. 

We find ourselves with nothing to do. Most of the staff is standing around chatting, and nobody seems interested in giving us any direction or telling us if anything needs to be done. We had been warned by one of our program directors that, even though help is greatly needed in many places, nobody is going to hand-hold or tell you what to do or where to go. It has been POURING down rain since we woke up at 6 in the morning, and there are areas where the roof leaks all over the building. Sari and I search for a broom and, luckily, find two. We spend the next hour or so sweeping buckets of water out into the courtyard. It's incredible how much it rains, during this season, in Guatemala, and most buildings aren't kept well, so water inside isn't strange to see. Many women and staff members stop by to watch and thank us, asking where we're from and how long we'll be staying. Despite the physical labor, we have fun and I really enjoy speaking Spanish and trying to understand all the ladies are saying. We find a soak-rug to lay down over the slippery tile, and our work for the day is finished. We're picked up around 12:30 and taken home for lunch with the other volunteers. We are all exhausted and starving! Thankfully coffee is brewing and the food is hot. We exchange stories over food, and at 2:15, we leave with coordinator Juan Carlos for his Tour of Guatemala City.

Castillo Family Mausoleum 

Holes for rent

Sculpture next to a Mausoleum 

City Tour

Juan Carlos begins by telling us that this is not going to be a tourist tour, but a cultural tour. I will try to give as much information as he does. There are 25 zones in Guatemala city (our Home Base is in Zona 2). There are rich zones and poor zones, but most zones have a mixture, and even the richest zone, 14, has a shanty town in it. There are only two hospitals in the city, which claims 5 million people. We pass the most dangerous neighborhood in the city. The streets are blocked off with yellow cement partitions. We then turn into the Cemeterio General. Each mausoleum houses a different family's dead. The families are responsibly for the upkeep of the mausoleum: paint, broken windows, earthquake damage, etc. The rent is about 3000Q per year. The poorer families pay for only a hole in the wall, the rent being 300Q per year. Juan Carlos tells us that ten families in Guatemala own all the land and money. The richest family is the Castillo family, who own the Gallo Brewery and the largest bank. Their mausoleum is the largest and most ornate in the entire cemetery, to show how much power and money they have. There are also some fenced off, private cemeteries for Germans, Italians, Chinese, Jews, British, and more. The cultures stay separate, even in death.

We drive to the rear of the cemetery, which gives us a great view of the enormous landfill. Many people make their living here from sorting through the trash and separating plastic, aluminum, and paper. They take the huge bags of trash home and live with it, eat with it, sleep with it. After it's sorted, they sell the recyclables to recycling companies.We drive through the neighborhoods where trash is piled up higher than the tops of the door frames. People were selling food right next to it... I didn't take any pictures.

We then drive through Zona 8, which has auto businesses specializing in stolen car parts. La Terminal is next, the biggest market in Guatemala City, with all the fresh fruit from the farms. We pass Pollo Campero, a chicken fast food chain that Juan Carlos claims is much better than KFC. It is owned by the second richest family in Guatemala, and can be found all over the world. We zip by all of this so fast that I don't get pictures. Our guides tells us about the chicken buses - buses that go from city to city with people (and sometimes animals) crammed in. It costs only 1Q to ride. The problem is, the gangsters stop the buses and ask for "tax" from the driver. If the driver doesn't pay, the gangster will shoot him. One chicken bus driver dies every day in Guatemala. There is a newer bus system called Transmetro that has been put into place - the tickets are prepaid so there is no money being carried around. This hasn't put the chicken buses out of business, but offers a safer alternative for travelers. We stop for an ice cream at a chain called POPS, then ride through Zone 14, the wealthiest zone. It looks like America. There is a Starbucks and smooth, paved roads, street lights and advertisements. Juan Carlos tells us that Starbucks and McDonald's are considered VERY fancy here, and that only the rich go to get Frappuchino's and McCafe's. I want to visit a Mickey D's while I'm here to see if it's any nicer than in the states.

Next we stop to overlook the oldest shanty town in Guatemala, La Lemonada, in Zona 5. Originally, the valley the shanty town fills was full of lemon trees. Then an earthquake hit and displaced a lot of people, who all moved into the only available space. Since La Lemonada has been around for so long, the houses are made of cement instead of tin and other materials, and actually has running water. It is a very poor and dangerous neighborhood, though. So dangerous, in fact, that the police will not go there.

We are now finished with our tour, and sit in traffic on the way home. There's no AC in our bus and the traffic fumes here are choking. The air pollution is something that even a Houstonian is not used to. I walk with another volunteer to the ATM around the corner from our Home Base and pull out some more Quetzales. The thunderstorm never really lightened up, so there is no wifi. We decide to have a "fro-off" between one of the high schoolers, Samara, and their chaperon, Sharon. I am now a pick-master. We tell some ghost stories after dinner and go to bed. The days here a long and full, and I'm pooped.

6.1

Morning

We leave the home-base at 9:30 this morning, and all pile into our big, purple bus. A hefty breakfast of pancakes and yogurt gives us plenty of energy. There is a group of high school-ers from Colorado who is also volunteering with our group, along with chaperones Sharon and Carolina, and they are staying for two weeks. They play music and sing in the back while we ride. Looking out the window, we get a view of more of Guatemala City, with little shacks carved into the sides of the mountains, practically stacked on top of each other. Clotheslines run from roof to roof and people sit outside in the cool mountain air. The bus grinds its protest to the steep roads and people swerve dangerously (and quickly) around the curves. We arrive in no time, stopping in Parque Central for ATM's & a bathroom break before continuing on. The first thing you need to learn in Spanish before coming to Antigua is “No, gracias.” Men, women and children swarm us as soon as we step off the bus, trying to sell us flutes, drums, bracelets, and more. It costs three Queztals to use the restroom, and we are handed toilet paper after we pay. (I think this system would really boost America's economy).

The Stairs

After hopping back in the van, we head up to a higher point of one of the mountains or hills. There is a set of very steep, very shallow steps winding all the way up. It's about a 15 minute climb and is NO JOKE in this altitude! I was huffing and puffing. There's my 1000 steps for the day! However, there is a cart selling cold, bottled water at the top, and an AMAZING view of one of the four volcanoes that ring the city, with an incredible look at Antigua from above. We stop to take pictures of Volcan Agua (there is also a Volcan Fuego, but it is hidden by the clouds) and rest before trekking back down. There's a band playing marching music that gets louder the closer we get, which makes the descent a little more dramatic.

San Pedro Las Huertas & Jade Factory

Our next stop is in the village of San Pedro Las Huertas, just outside of Antigua. There is a beautiful church, Iglesia de San Pedro, and we duck inside to observe a few minutes of mass. There are glass cases with detailed mannequins depicting Mary, a few saints, and some of the stations of the cross. The church is large, but quaint, and very beautiful. There are women washing clothes in a large fountain across from the church, which is custom to do here on Sundays. We walk down one of the narrow streets to a discreet door marked only by a 10.

We're let in, after a knock, and we are welcomed to the King Brothers Jades Jade Factory. Jade is mined from the mountainside and brought here to be cut, shaped, and polished into the beautiful pieces Guatemala is known for.  

Mayan Green Jade in center

Lavender Jade

Artist creating mask 

 

Completed mask

After a brief presentation about the stone and how it is mined, the guide wets the rocks to show some of their true color. There are 23 different shades of Jade Green found in the mountains here, and 50 different colors total. The two that are only found in Guatemala are pictured above: Mayan Green Jade and Lavender Jade. The Lavender Jade is very special, because it boasts five different colors in one rock, which is very rare. It is also sometimes called Rainbow Jade. The stones take a very long time to go from rock to jewelry, and it takes 8 to 10 sandpaper washes before they keep their polished look.

Mercado

After our wallets are all a little lighter, we leave the Jade Factory and head back to Antigua for lunch. We eat at an American restaurant since there are so many of us today (18!). We are seated outside, under a covering, and there is a brief thunderstorm while we dine. After it dries, we spend about an hour in the Mercado de Artesanias. This place is BEAUTIFUL. I have never seen so many bright colors in my life. Everything is hand woven or hand carved, and I spend all the money I have in my wallet (luckily, it wasn't very much).  

Although I've taken four semesters of Spanish and had plenty of practice outside of school, I still surprise myself with how much I understand and am able to speak. In America, I'm able to listen and understand with ease, but stumble over my words in response. Here, I am already feeling more confident and speaking more. I even speak Spanish with the vendors who understand English. This brings me great happiness, as today is only my second day in this culture and already I am improving. Everything here is so cheap that I forget to barter. I'll remember next time we go to a market.

We meet back at the bus and it's a quiet, exhausted ride home. We get home, change, eat a delicious, simple dinner, and relax. I spend some time talking to Ann and Hallie about Tikal, and we book a one-day tour, online, for next Sunday. Tomorrow morning begins our volunteer placements, and then afterward a tour of Guatemala City.  

5.31

Departure
I flew United, and was lucky enough to find myself in business class with plenty of leg room. A meal was served, though I didn't indulge in the yellow and green hockey-puck the stewardess served instead of scrambled eggs. What's that old joke about airplane food? Sat next to me was a 16 year old Guatemalan-Nebraskan named Robresy. She left Guatemala with her family when she was 7 years old and has been living in Lincoln, Nebraska ever since. Today was her first trip home since then, and she was staying for the entire summer. We shared nervous jitters about the flight and filled out customs paperwork together – it was nice to have a friend. I tore through my Fodor's guidebook for the duration of the trip, dogearing pages and making lists of the cities and landmarks I want to visit on the weekends. For the first time, this trip began to feel real to me. I pour through the maps and wonder how just how many destinations I can fit into this trip. Finally, we landed. With a brief stop to exchange some money - “Puedo tener cincuenta dolares en quetzals, por favor?” - my companion and I made our way to Baggage Claim, and with the tight hug that results from saying goodbye to a fast friend, we went our separate ways.

Arrival

I leave the airport and am faced with an enormous crowd of people behind barricades, all clamoring to see who will walk out the door next. A policeman leads me to a man holding a Cross Cultural Solutions sign, Victor. Victor is one of the drivers and will assist us with most any travel. He takes me to a cafe to the side where three girls are already waiting, and tells me three more are coming. I meet Hallie, Kim and Alex, all three around my age, staying in Guatemala for 6 weeks, 4 and 4, respectively. We chat until Ann and her two daughters, Harbour and Willow, 7th grade- and 4th grade- age, arrive with Victor. They will only be staying one week. Then, we're off. 

Victor takes us to a pick up zone and tells us to wait while he gets the van. A small girl stops me with big, sad doe eyes and begs for money. I tell her No, embarrassed. That will take some getting used to. When Victor pulls up, he is driving a giant, purple spaceship of a bus. We pile in with our luggage and head to Zona 2, where our home-base is located. 

Everyone in Guatemala drives a motorcycle. They zip in between cabs and buses, and are lined up, parked along every street as if there was a Bike Rally going on. The traffic is so bad, there's no question why. The city is both beautiful and ugly. Modern structures pepper blocks ancient brick buildings. We see street vendors, churches, and children begging, even juggling in the street. The houses and shacks are all different colors. With the vibrant purples and greens, the loud music, old buildings, narrow streets and abundant graffiti, I could very well be in a Latino New Orleans. 

Casa

We arrived at the Home-base just in time for lunch. After a brief tour of the house and introduction to the staff, we were served delicious mashed yucca, chicken, some sort of fruit and other dish that I could not name, but ate anyway.

 We had some free time, then an orientation to go over our volunteer placements and rules. Sandwiches for dinner. Tomorrow morning, we leave to explore Antigua! More pictures and posts to follow.

Boarding

Well, after getting dropped at the wrong terminal, standing in the wrong line, and slipping on spilled coffee, I am finally sitting in my plane, awaiting departure to Guatemala. 

I'm at once nervous, excited, scared, sad and ecstatic. When I booked this trip, 3 weeks felt like a heartbeat, but at this moment it could be an eternity.

I'm so thankful that I was able to have this opportunity and I plan to make the most of it!

One week!

Wow, it really has been a while since I've had time to update this blog. This semester was incredibly busy for me between school and work, but well worth it. I raised enough money through my fundraiser and the overwhelming generosity of friends and family - thanks again, guys - not to mention my own paychecks! Finals are finally over, summer has been in session for a couple of weeks, and I leave the country May 31.

I finally found out where I'll be volunteering for the duration of my stay. I have been "placed" at Hogar de Ancianas de San Vincente de Paul, an institution founded in 1870 to provide better quality of life to elderly abandoned women. My work will include assisting with physical therapy, cleaning living areas, spending quality time with the women individually, preparing and serving meals, and more. I couldn't have gotten a better placement and I'm thrilled to have the opportunity to work with these women and learn from them.

I'm so excited for this trip, and I can't believe it is so close. I will continue to post to this blog and Facebook, so keep a look out for updates. :)

Reed